Dogs Outdoors

A woman recently asked me for advice on her dogs because they can't be apart without real separation stress. It turns out they live together outside in the yard all the time! Of course they're attached to each other. Their humans barely acknowledge their existence.

Why? If you don't have sheep for your dogs to guard, why in the world are your dogs outside all the time? Because they need training? Because they're destructive? Because you don't like dog hair on your precious rug? Because you don't care enough to have them inside?

I hear dogs barking in my neighborhood at night. Are they supposed to be guarding the house so they are outside in the backyard? If I were the burglar, I'd go in the front, then. The dogs would be better guards from invaders if they are in the house, no? And dogs want to sleep with the rest of the family at night. Not shut outside in the cold, not even in the kitchen but in the bedroom.

I hear a dog near my house crying during the afternoon when he hears me or my dogs near his backyard. He's lonely and sad because his people leave him outside all day.

There are real predators out there--and fleas and toxic things to eat. Your dog needs to spend the majority of her time in the house, not out. She needs to relax and not be on guard all the time! She is not there to serve you. If you are not going to give a dog an interesting life and let her be bonded to you and live as part of the family, don't get a dog. And don't get me started on outdoor cats. I'll just say they don't need to be outside hunting, shortening their lifespans by years. They need to curl up at home and relax and live a life of leisure.

My neighborhood app constantly has posts about lost and found dogs and cats. Many are escapees from their boring yard existences. I don't blame them. But I want them to stay safe.

Most of the time dogs don't get to choose their humans. They get who they get, and they are at our mercy, so we need to be merciful.

I needed to vent today. Thanks.

Furry Sponges Need Friends

A dog recently came to my class who had taken class almost a year ago, and he'd now forgotten that he liked other dogs during the first class. He has not had much nice on-leash socialization since that other class.

Now is the time. Wherever your dog is in her skills, wherever you are in your busy schedule, now is the time to have your dog out and about.

Sometimes we take a puppy through a great socialization class during that critical period before sixteen weeks--or even after that period--and we see how easily the pup gets along with others and isn't fazed by any of the curve balls we throw, like funny noises and people and places. Because puppies generally are so malleable when they're very young, it's easy to say, "One and done. I did my job as a pup parent." You did. Good for you. But the job continues.

One six-week class does not make a great canine citizen. Getting your dog out into the world for positive experiences as often as possible is good for both of you. Even if you have an adult dog with issues around other dogs or children or new places, the problem won't be solved by keeping her away from things that bother her. A capable positive trainer can help with those difficulties.

Staying in classes can prevent and alleviate the problems! Not every trainer wants to have reactive dogs in class with non-reactive dogs, but the reactive dog can be carefully managed--usually at a distance at first to relieve some of the pressure--so she can start to have nice experiences around other dogs to minimize her fear. Because the vast majority of the time, fear is what is behind the dog's behavior.

Your classes don't even have to be obedience classes: try a new dog sport to stay active and social!  And if your dog has a really great sit and down and recall, you need to bring those skills to another level. Now that you've got the basics down, the fun truly starts! Your dog is a sponge and capable of so much more. She thanks you and so do I!

Stay HOME During the Worst Week of the Year

At this time of year I'm of course asked about getting dogs to handle the sound of fireworks. You could make some good strides even with only three weeks to go before the big day. Do try desensitizing and counterconditioning: put on a recording of firecracker sounds while your dog is having dinner; keep the volume low and not too close to where he's eating. If he has a bad response, pull back: let it play for just a few seconds at a time. Increasing the volume and duration gradually can sometimes help with the real thing. Add in some extra fabulous treats.

The sounds of sudden explosions sure aren't normal, so how can you make things better for Sam? Go buy a Thunder Shirt right now. Put it on your dog when you're home just relaxing, then take it off after an hour or two. Then do that again. You want to create a positive association with the Thunder Shirt--not just put on the scary shirt during scary times. Now add a little lavender oil to the shirt for added relaxation. Now try both for most of the holiday weekend. You can also add a terrific Calming Collar of synthetic pheromones that simulate a lactating female--they love Mama even as adults. Dogs who have a particularly bad response can even get a little help from your vet with a bit of medication. Have a young puppy? Now is the best time in her life to desensitize her! Give her a bone she's never had before and watch her ignore those sounds.

This 2019 Fourth of July extravaganza will be particularly long: there may be fireworks for two weeks, since the holiday itself falls on a Thursday! Yikes. Your TV or radio should be on to disguise some of the noise. Your windows should be closed. YOU SHOULD BE HOME!! YES, YOU SHOULD SKIP THE BARBECUE! "My dog is just fine with the Fourth of July sounds." How do you know? Because you are home with her? That may be a big part of why she's fine. Indeed, lots of dogs have little issue with the noises--my own are just fine--but leaving them to listen to random "gunshots" at home by themselves is just not fair. You know what's the most unfair? Bringing them with you to the park to see the fireworks! And skip Fourth of July parades, too!  Those are crazy ideas.

Nationally animal control sees a 30 percent increase in lost pets on the Fourth, and July 5th is the busiest day at shelters! If we love our dogs, we don't want them to be afraid. So just stay home. Put another tofu dog on the grill pan inside and cuddle with Sophie. She'll love the time with you and she'll know you have her back. You can party on Labor Day.

Stay Social

How do you create a dog who doesn't prefer being on his phone to actual interaction with other dogs? We all talk about whether humans communicate effectively these days. How do you keep your dog communicating well with others?

Trainers often see fantastic puppies graduate from puppy kindergarten and then come back to class nine months later as little monsters, barking at other dogs or wanting to hide. We all say a positive puppy class is absolutely key in social development, and it is true that without it a pup can be doomed to shyness and fear. But socializing cannot stop in puppy kindergarten.

Your puppy needs to stay social. Tell her to put the phone away and say hi to those other nice dogs you know. How do you keep her consistently well behaved around other dogs? Stay in dog class! It's a commitment to keep going to class, but it should be part of your commitment to Chloe. She's always there for you, so make the time for an hour a week to have her practice her behaviors around other cute ones. After Chloe graduates from puppy class, she should immediately go to the next level class. And after that she needs to go on to the level after that. No breaks. It doesn't matter what kind of obedience skills she can demonstrate as much as that she learns to listen to you and focus around distractions--and have a positive experience around other dogs.

Some dogs who react badly especially on leash around other dogs can learn excellent manners just by being in a class situation. As long as the class doesn't add too much stress for the dog, desensitization happens and even counterconditioning: "Every time I go to this great place, I see other dogs and cheddar falls from the sky! I love dogs!"

Chloe won't stay a model citizen if she's only in your backyard with her dog brother. She wants to be out and about and spend an hour with her favorite person. Yes, you're busy, but she's worth the time.

If your dog is already too stressed around other dogs, let's work on that and then get back to class! Trainers have skills to help. Chloe says thank you!

How to Stop Barking 101

Barking is so natural and useful, and you’re not always home when your dog is barking—so asking your her to "Shush" on cue will take some practice. After all, sometimes you want her to alert you.

Remember, too, that some dogs bark out of anxiety, especially when you first leave home. Try a filled Kong upon departure to help, and leave on a TV or radio to mask some sounds and soothe. (If your dog has anxiety, we need to discuss more. There is a whole protocol to help.)

Dogs should announce someone on the property or at the door, but they don’t need to let you know when someone walks by on the sidewalk or when a leaf drops! Station an accomplice outside the front door or even just knock or ring the bell yourself, being careful that your dog does not go out the door, of course. As always, don’t make the exercise too difficult at first so you can set up your dog to succeed.

Knock for the first few rounds and then try the doorbell instead if you have success. After two or three good woofs, say "Shush" (or “Stop” or “Thank you”) and then waggle a tasty food treat in front of your pup’s nose. She will stop barking as soon as she sniffs the treat because she can’t sniff and woof simultaneously. Praise your dog as she sniffs quietly and then give the treat. You're not rewarding the barking but the quiet.

Repeat this routine a dozen or so times, and eventually your dog will learn to anticipate the likelihood of sniffables following your "Shush" request. You can also add a hand signal such as closing your fingers to your thumb in imitation of a closed mouth. Over repeated trials, progressively increase the length of required shush-time before offering a food reward—at first just two seconds, then three, five, eight, twelve, and twenty.

The more softly you speak, even whispering praise, the more your dog will be inclined to pay attention and listen (and therefore, not bark). Try not to compete in the Who Is Loudest Game!

You will want to leave a bag of treats out of dog reach but near the door until she gets good at this new game. When the UPS delivery happens, you need to grab treats pretty quickly to reinforce a real example! If your dog is especially barky, you will want to change the subject, too: get her away from the window, play some fetch, etc. And don’t forget that some dogs bark just because they are bored, too, so keep life Interesting. Woof!

Cure Cabin Fever!

Brrr! Need some inside activities during this cold, snowy, rainy winter? Pepper says, "YES, PLEASE!"

"Find It": Hide a particular toy and ask your dog to find it. Make the game easy at first! Leave it so he can see a little of it. Use the same toy each time at first so he learns there is a difference between "turtle" and "ball." "Find It" also works for dinner--measure and hide kibble under chairs and the sofa.

"Hide-and-Seek": Even if your dog doesn't have a good stay yet, have another member of your household hold her while you go hide and then call. Again, don't make it too hard at first!

"Stay": This is a good time to work on Pepper's sit-stay and down-stay, and even his stand-stay. Try for duration before building distance--then mix them up. It's easier to stay when your handler is close by, so don't rush the process. And don't say "Come" to release the stay--always return and release with a word like "dismissed" or even "OK."

"Search": Try Nose Work! You don't need a formal class to get started. Get six different empty boxes and put them out with a moist treat in one. Watch how quickly your dog's innate abilities kick in! Then put the treat in a different box. Then move the boxes around. Pepper may need to try this on leash at first, but let him do the work without your leading.

Puzzle Toys: Measure breakfast and stuff it in a Kong or multiple Kongs--even frozen! Try harder puzzle toys like those by Nina Otttosson.

"Heel": You can get a nicely focused dog if you try heeling in your hallway or around the house, back and forth. No leash required. Your dog may already do nice "loose leash walking," so now you can up her game: she is reinforced for her shoulder being right beside your leg and encouraged every time she looks at you.

"CGC": Many (not all) of the exercises that are part of the AKC Canine Good Citizen exam are quick and can be practiced indoors. https://www.akc.org/products-services/training-programs/canine-good-citizen/training-testing/

"Fetch": Whether you work with a ball or plush toy or an actual dumbbell, you can build your dog's drive to fetch. Guess what? Work closely and easily at first.

While you're at, guess who else likes most of these games? Cats! Well, probably not Heel.

Our dogs are limited only by our imagination and coaching abilities. Stuck inside can mean learning new tricks!

Resolve for Fun!

'Tis resolution season, of course. Lots of diets are happening; yoga classes are crowded. How many people resolve to add more fun into their lives? Good idea, right? And one of the easiest ways to make your life fun is by making your dog's life fun!

Resolve to take your dog somewhere new! Take a dog vacation rather than leaving him behind. Go somewhere new locally once a week so he has lots of stimulus! Teach him a new trick once a month. Try a new dog sport. There are so many fun things to try these days: fly ball, rally, nose work, agility, urban mushing, earth dog, dock diving, lure coursing, conformation, herding, freestyle dance, and that old standby, obedience.

Tanner is about to try a nose work class. Dogs sniff around boxes and find a particular scent. It's in their DNA, but it's going to take quite a bit of training on our part. Dogs take turns, so Tanner will be crated between takes--and being quiet in a crate isn't something we have worked on in a long while. He's perfect at crating in the car, so let's hope it transfers when there are exciting dogs around him in a training facility. He's a miniature pinscher mix, and barking is in his DNA. Also, his street dog background still shows itself sometimes in his desire to mark new objects--peeing on things like boxes with scents in them. See why this will be a good class for him?

We have other resolutions at our house, too. Specific obedience cues that we could work on. But also, we're resolving to learn a new trick a month. We should have more tricks in our repertoire.

If your dog has a problem behavior or two (or three), working on those may not sound like lots of fun, but indeed it should be. If you train correctly, your dog doesn't realize that learning to stop barking is anything but a game. He stops barking and gets a piece of hot dog: sounds fun to him! And your life will be more fun when you have a calmer pup with better manners.

More cuddles, more new toys, more food games: good resolutions for all of us! Happy, healthy new year!

Dogs on Paper

Nope, we're not talking today about dogs eliminating on paper.

Sometimes clients call with situations that on paper don't seem like the best scenarios. Adopting a territorial, resource-guarding dog from a shelter to live with a fifteen-year-old dog who doesn't like other dogs: sounds like a bad idea on paper until you meet the two dogs. The guarder isn't guarding now that she's out of her original home. The grouchy senior seems to find the new dog irrelevant. This might just work!

Choosing a terrier puppy to live with a senior basset hound: on paper the older dog wouldn't want to be bothered with the annoying kid jumping on his back. But the puppy has breathed new fun into the older dog's world--and they do well together as long as the pup remembers that jumping on backs is a no-no and the dogs have scheduled breaks from each other during the day.

A labradoodle puppy turned out to be eighty pounds as an adult (the breed does come in lots of sizes!)--and she lives with a petite woman of a certain age. The dog is bouncy and joyous and on paper way too much for her person to walk. But some really solid leash training and lots of fetch and games to tire out her brain make the girl a better candidate for walking. We are still using a dog walker and day care to tire her out, though; we need to keep the human from falling.

Although the internet is full of information (and misinformation) on dogs, we need to look past what is on paper--or on the screen--and see the individuals before us. How much experience does the handler have? What kind of experience? What is the individual dog really like? Many don't act like their breeds are "supposed to," after all.

Trainers need to listen and observe carefully. And we all need to be patient and give situations tweaks and lots of time. That new rescue dog could easily take eight months to show you who he really is. Truly.

Times Change

We're so lucky when dogs live long lives, and senior dogs can be the best dogs ever. It can be hard to remember how our senior was a dozen years ago. Dogs change--and dog training and dog products have changed in the past dozen years, too.

More than ever before, humans are discovering the benefits of Positive Training--for their dogs but also for their spouses and children! There are still people who haven't discovered yet that rewarding good is better training than punishing the bad, but eventually we hope everyone who has an animal in his/her home will realize that times have changed.

Food has completely changed in the past decade. We know that "by-products" can be scary and certainly not as healthy as the real deal. Lots of dogs (and cats) now find Raw Food beneficial, and treats are often just dehydrated versions of actual food. People are learning that shopping for dog food in the grocery store is not the way to find the best quality choices. A very good pet store has staff who can tell you where the food was farmed, where it was packaged, why one is better for your dog's issue than another.... Giving your dog the best food you can afford should lead to better health. Milk Bones are out. (Have you smelled them? Practically no scent at all, and you know that's what counts most for your dog.) "Treats" should just be food that is convenient to give in small form for training or a positive snack the dog receives when you leave the house.

I see far fewer dogs riding in the beds of pick-up trucks. I'd love to see no dogs doing that.... Dog guardians now realize that seat belts, carriers, booster seats, and many other contraptions keep their dogs safer in vehicles. If their dog has motion sickness or anxiety in a car, their faithful humans work on the problem and make their dog happier.

More humans realize their dog is actually a family member who wants to be indoors the majority of the time, not chained up outside. Dogs sleep in the bedrooms with their humans more and more--since they relax more with the "pack." Doesn't matter if they are on the bed or in their own dog beds as long as everyone is happy. Years ago, if we had a yard, the dog didn't get many walks. Now people realize that smelling and new environments and exercise are essential to a dog's well-being.

The pet world is constantly changing--and your fur balls thank you for staying current with the trends! I wonder where things will go in another decade....

Think Little

A dog in my Intermediate class is teeny--about three pounds--and Adorable and Clever. He learns quickly and does all the exercises well, thanks to a mom who works a lot with him. The entire class gapes at his cuteness and obedience perfection and obvious love of the games.

He's not the first. Another lil one just graduated to the next level, and she is also attentive and intelligent and driven. She too has many fans.

They are lovely little dogs, but I think they get extra attention because people often are so surprised that of course little dogs can do what big dogs can do. We see a lot of larger breeds in formal obedience classes--without training, those dogs might take their handlers skating down the street or they might knock down their family members when the doorbell rings. People who have bigger dogs in their lives often take class after class so there is less chaos at home. But those little breeds can (and should, I would argue) be as trained as their larger cousins. Spending an hour in class weekly with dogs of every size keeps them social and keeps their neurons firing and bonds them with their people.

Let's see more of those miniature breeds move beyond the basics! They too can learn two hundred words! They should compete in obedience and agility trials and become Canine Good Citizens Extraordinaire. The tiny dogs in my classes should be the rule, not the exception--though they are exceptionally CUTE!

Be Nice!

Your dog is the nicest being in the world, isn't he? Unconditional love, cuddles for free, kisses upon request. Let's all try to be as nice to dogs as they are to us.

You don't need to use a spray bottle of water to get your pup to stop barking. That's just not nice. It's not the technique you'd use on your young child, I'm guessing, so why try it on Aubrey? Will spraying her hurt her? Not physically. But it erodes trust. I wouldn't trust someone who sprayed me for reasons I don't really understand.

A choke chain doesn't really "choke" your dog when you use it "correctly." It keeps your dog walking nicely beside you?  If you "correct" her often enough, you'll be able to see--because her fur will become worn away where the chain cuts. It's mean to yank on your dog because she doesn't listen. A prong collar is supposed to pinch your dog so she listens. She will listen better if she believes you're really on her side. Watch how carrying great treats can mean good walking--so much nicer.

We can all get frustrated, but if you yell at your dog, she is more likely to think you're unpredictable and to feel nervous around her "guardian." She just doesn't understand what you want--so calmly teach her what to do instead of what not to do. She's not being stubborn; she just hasn't learned fully yet.

If Sadie is shy, don't keep trying to introduce her to that neighbor dog she is afraid of. She doesn't want to be put in an unnerving situation. You don't like all people, and she will tell you which dogs she likes. Good enough.

Balancing biscuits on your dog's nose and saying "leave it" until he drools isn't nice. You wouldn't like it if I waved freshly baked chocolate chip cookies at you but said "leave it."

Bringing your dog to places that make her uncomfortable isn't nice either. She may not want to "deal with" a crowded outdoor festival or a busy dog park. What does she really enjoy instead?

My name is Robin and I'm a dog-aholic. Dogs are the best sunshine in this nutty world and better beings than most humans. Let's be nice to them. Put yourself in their paws before listening to the advice of your know-it-all friend....

I know you do. You're always your dog's advocate--and the best dog guardian ever. Dogs are simple if you use common sense--and I'm here to help.

Ouch! Puppies Bite!

They're so cute at this age, but they can be impossibly bitey! And the nips hurt, and they don't stop! Puppies can be a bit of an endurance test, and their biting is the worst. But this too shall pass. Their adult teeth arrive at between four and six months, depending on the breed--longest for smaller dogs, usually--and then life will be better.

In the meantime, those puppy needle teeth are teaching Tallulah bite inhibition so she doesn't bite down when playing as an adult. Your puppy is using you to learn some control while playing so she has a nice soft mouth when she's older. Ideally, she'd be using another puppy for that--in a great puppy socialization class with off-leash play (http://www.wlaotc.com/obedclass.htm). Other pups have fur to protect from those needles, but they also yelp if another puppy bites.

So you need to be the other puppy! When Tallulah plays too rough and nips, you need to say, "OW!" with a high-pitched yelp sound. She should look startled for a second, so then you ask for "kiss" and give her a great treat if she does. That means you should work on "kiss" when she's in a calm phase, too, and not playing. Most puppies are lickaholics anyhow: when she licks you--hands or face or anywhere--say the word "kiss" so she learns what the cue means. If you need to practice it more, put a little peanut butter on your hand.

So: "OW!" then "kiss" then treat. Then give her an appropriate chew toy that isn't your arm. That means having treats at the ready--which is pretty essential for puppy training anyway, having a bag of treats in every room out of puppy reach. She will probably try again because she wants to play. Repeat: "OW!" then "kiss" then treat then trade for a toy. You will want to have lots of toys of different sizes and textures and good chews like Kongs with food inside. Repeat a third time if needed, but if she's still too annoying, she may need a timeout. She needs to learn that when her behavior is that bitey, the play stops. She goes in her pen or crate or gated kitchen--anywhere away from you. (Just don't use the ruin the word "come" to bring her to a timeout.) With some puppies you can just walk away and ignore them and they understand the play has stopped--and some will just go for your ankles.

More mental stimulation helps! Obedience cues, puzzle toys, new sights and sounds. More exercise helps! Lots of walks if she's had her shots and lots of fetch inside if she hasn't (most pups come with fetch preinstalled but it can be learned if not). Much more contact with other dogs helps! If you want a dog who doesn't bark at other dogs when older, now is the prime time to get some nice dogs to play with anyhow. Off-leash play in your yard or home with nice dogs you know are vaccinated.

If your pup just can't seem to stop biting, she may just be bored. Bring out a new toy and move it around and show how fun it is--and she may enjoy it more than flesh. Using "leave it" also helps when she's after your pant leg or long hair. (Ask me how to teach it if you don't have that in your toolbox yet.) You can also add some lemon juice to your hands if she's really bad. Again, treat for the appropriate behavior, which is licking.

If you're a having a particularly bad time, you can also measure out Tallulah's meals and feed her by hand. She literally learns not to bite the hand that feeds her. Teaching "touch" so she touches her nose to your flat palm can also serve you--it's fun for her and teaches better contact especially with small humans.

Tallulah is normal. Very few puppies have actual aggression to worry about, but if your pup seems to respond to human touch by going to bite or actually bites down or even seems to respond to your asking her for behaviors by biting, you will want to have a trainer look at her. But most puppies have this bitey behavior, and I promise it will pass! Hang in there! Good dog parent!

Toddler Test

Puppies sure develop quickly, much more quickly than human young'uns. They have teeth very early, they walk not long after they're born, and they are independently eating far sooner. Eventually our human babies pass right by puppies, of course, learning so many more things our dogs will not.

No matter how old or smart your dog is (and your dog is the smartest dog you've even met, of course!), she will still never have learning skills that are any better than those of a human toddler. So speaking in simple words and being extra clear with training are important. Though your dog may be an adult, her natural instincts will not keep her any safer than a toddler, either.

Are you asking your dog for too much? Try the Toddler Test for your choices. While you bring in groceries from the car, would you leave your toddler alone in the house with the front door wide open to traffic? Even with good training, dogs can't make the good choice to stay inside your doorway--so don't trust them. Should your child sit on your lap while you're driving, or should he hang out the car window? Your dog isn't smarter than a toddler--and I've personally known two dogs in my neighborhood who died jumping out the car window. Your child is secured safely in the back seat and so should be your pooch. You don't walk down a busy street without holding the hand of a toddler, and you shouldn't try an unleashed dog toddler in the same situation.

When you're teaching your dog something new, are you expecting him to understand what you want without showing him? Break down the task to toddler levels: he doesn't know what sit is until you take a treat and show him that, when his rump is on the ground, he is rewarded. Saying the word louder isn't getting you results until he has a concept of what the word might mean. You wouldn't teach your toddler to sit by yanking on his neck till he does it. You wouldn't swat him on the nose with a newspaper for peeing inappropriately.

You're doing great. Just take training at the speed of your doggie toddler and keep him safe! Woof!

Patience with Fear

So many dogs are happy-go-lucky and confident and up for adventures. Lately, I'm meeting quite a few fearful pups--and we can do a lot to make them feel better.

Some humans are tempted to rush the process, but fear can dissipate only when the dog is ready. If, for example, your dog has moderate separation anxiety--perhaps chewing things especially at exit routes and maybe peeing when you're not home--you've got to make the time to help him through desensitization and counterconditioning. (Ask me for more info!) You may have to use doggy day care or have friends stay at your place or take your dog to your job as you work on getting him used to being on his own. Any time he spends by himself in the meantime can just fuel his anxiety. Patience is crucial--and kind.

Even some puppies are fearful right from the beginning, sometimes thanks to genetics or bad experiences even before they are eight weeks old. They need to adjust to scary environments or strangers or other dogs at their own speed. Why rush it?

If you were afraid of snakes, I wouldn't bring you into a room crawling with them. We'd start by maybe letting you see one asleep in a secure tank. If you ate chocolate chip cookies while admiring the snake from across the room, you would probably sign up to visit Sammy the Snake again very soon.

Short sessions at the pace of the dog. Lots of great rewards the dog enjoys--food or otherwise--and patience will pay off. Taking your time with fear doesn't mean it takes a long time to deal with fear--often just the opposite--but it takes however long it takes.

And even after things seem pretty good, reinforcing the positive is still necessary sometimes so the dog doesn't backslide. Your dog's separation anxiety seems to have gone away--so once in a while, use some of the same tools you used to solve the issue just so he stays secure. Go out and come right back. Pick up your keys for no reason so the cue isn't so important. Don't make a fuss when you come home. Give a treat when you leave. Keep the TV on for company. Let's keep fear under control if we can!

Random News for Some

-Not every human can make kissy sounds.

-Panda's peeing under a balcony decreases her popularity with neighbors.

-Choosing when and where your dog pees on a walk means you can pause in the shade.

-Moving your dog off the sidewalk is nice for pedestrians passing--not everyone wants your dog jumping up.

-Peeing on walls is nasty--and planters and landscaping and garbage pails. Making dogs wanted in neighborhoods is a good goal for all of us, so peeing on the grass closer to the street instead of lawns is a help.

-Cursing at bike riders flying down the sidewalk toward my dogs does no good; they probably don't even hear me. Even though bicycles are vehicles and we legally have the right of way.

-Shouting at your dog to stop barking only adds to the noise.

-Looking behind you lets you know when a driver is going to run down your dogs when you're crossing the street.

-Having treats at the ready reinforces good behavior right away. On the fireplace mantle. In a pouch on walks. Every time you go out during housebreaking.

-Asking your dog to Come out of a Stay decreases the success of both when she's just learning.

-If your dog chews/pees/barks while you are home with him, you're not paying attention so it's your fault.

-Some of the best dogs in the world have had no training whatsoever. Lucky humans!

Back to Dog School!

Some dog have all the luck. Yesterday was the first-birthday party for one of my cutest clients, and he invited a slew of doggie friends to come over to celebrate. He has a pretty great life. He goes to local stores and restaurants with his people all the time, he goes on vacations with them, and he is always at dog events and in class. He's always been a star pupil, learning everything quickly in puppy class, always being the nicest dog friend to others in grown-up manners, and easily flying over equipment in agility class. He's always learning something new--which makes him confident and well-adjusted.

My Tanner is finally back in agility class after life gave us a little break. He is his happiest when he is sprinting over jumps and through tunnels. He loves the running--and the teamwork, keeping an eye on me the whole time. And we get our one-on-one time at least once a week.

Going to School with your dog doesn't mean a stack of homework or falling asleep during lectures. It means learning even more skills, getting on your feet and trying new things, being around other dogs and dog people, seeing if both of you can succeed when there are distractions, and having FUN. There are so many different classes and sports to try nowadays. Check out Fly Ball, Nosework, Earth Dog, Herding, Dock Diving, and Freestyle Dance, to name just a few.

There's never been a better time to be a dog--and a dog lover.

Oh, and yes, we have classes for you. Next sessions start at the end of October!

Just Stay Home--Boom!

At this time of year I'm of course asked about getting dogs to handle the sound of fireworks. Well, it's pretty much too late for that. It's June 29--you can't desensitize your pup now. Do try: put on a recording of firecracker sounds while your dog is having dinner; keep the volume low and not too close to where he's eating. If he has a bad response, pull back: let it play for just a few seconds at a time. Increasing the volume and duration gradually can sometimes help with the real thing. Add in some extra fabulous treats.

The sounds of sudden explosions sure aren't normal, so how can you make things better for Sam? Go buy a Thunder Shirt right now. Put it on when you're home just relaxing, then take it off after an hour or two. Then do that again. Now add a little lavender oil to the shirt for added relaxation. Now try both for most of the holiday weekend. You can also add a Calming Collar of synthetic pheromones that simulate a lactating female--they love Mama even as adults. Dogs who have a particularly bad response can even get a little help from your vet with a bit of medication. Have a young puppy? Now is the best time in her life to desensitize her! Give her a bone she's never had before and watch her ignore those sounds.

This 2017 Fourth of July extravaganza will be particularly long: there may be fireworks from Friday evening through Wednesday, since the holiday itself falls on a Tuesday! Yikes. Your TV or radio should be on the entire time to disguise some of the noise. Your windows should be closed. YOU SHOULD BE HOME!! YES, YOU SHOULD SKIP THE BARBECUE! "My dog is just fine with the Fourth of July sounds." How do you know? Because you are home with her? That may be a big part of why she's fine. Indeed, lots of dogs have little issue with the noises--my own included--but leaving them to listen to random "gunshots" at home by themselves is just not fair. You know what's the most unfair? Bringing them with you to the park to see the fireworks! And skip Fourth of July parades, too!  Those are crazy ideas.

Nationally animal control sees a 30 percent increase in lost pets on the Fourth, and July 5th is the busiest day at shelters! If we love our dogs, we don't want them to be afraid. So just stay home. Put another tofu dog on the grill pan inside and cuddle with Sophie. She'll love the time with you and she'll know you have her back. You can party on Labor Day.

What to Look for in a Pet-Sitter

I just had a lovely vacation--without my dogs. I love vacations with my dogs, too, of course, but once in a while it really is good to take a break, and I took a two-week trip, which I haven't done in years. I was able to do that only because I have the most trustworthy, capable pet-sitter on the planet. It's no fun to go away and worry--but I never worry when their gal is on the job. They literally love her as much as they love me.

What do you need in a pet-sitter? You need someone you can trust to be practical and use her head in every situation. My brain goes to worst-case scenarios like earthquakes: I know that Dawn would get everyone out safely with food and water and be in touch with me as soon as possible. Tommy had a health thing going on just before I left (because they are always healthy till you're going out of town!), and though he seemed fine, he had a little relapse, and she was watching him carefully and knew to reach out to me and see if he should go to the vet--and she took him (which is no fun with him).

Your pets would love life to be as usual as possible: meals at normal times, walks as scheduled, dog beds in the regular spots, no wild parties happening while their parents are away. If they could tell you, they would ask for someone to live at your place and be a substitute mama. What can also work really well is the dog going to the sitter's place so he's still in a home situation. I could never board my dogs; it would be too big a change for them and no way would I not worry--about dog fights and canine flu and lack of attention and the foreign environment.

Pet-sitters should take a Pet First-Aid/CPR course. They should have lots of actual experience with animals! These days, there is an app for everything, but I wouldn't want someone I've never even met to walk my dogs! I've met "sitters" who let a three-pound puppy bounce around the car--and out--with no harness or collar and who don't know when and what the dog is eating! Your job, in addition, is to leave comprehensive instructions and emergency numbers to keep things as usual and safe as possible. Just knowing you say, "Wait," before going out the door with the dog can keep a dog from running away when the sitter is there!

They love you unconditionally, and they're your kids: give them the best. Do I have staff people for pet-sitting and dog walking? You bet! :-) But we book early....

Have a great trip!

Bait

Those fanny packs lots of trainer wear these days? Some call them "bait bags." I usually call them slot machines: dogs are excited to play games with humans who could give out a treat or two or even a jackpot at any moment!

When they're learning a new behavior, the "bait" delivers exact communication between human and pup--as long as the human has good timing and gives the reward within a second of the desired behavior. When you get a paycheck every week or two from your employer, you know you've been giving the company what is expected--and the promise of a future paycheck keeps you coming back for more.

But a lot of treats are boring or become boring. If Pierrot is responding to the trainer and not you, check your treats. Are you wearing a pouch so the lovely smells of liver and lamb waft over Pierrot? Are you burying your treats in your pants pocket and not only take too long to match behavior with reward but hide the great promises you hold? Are you using dry, boring biscuits that crumble, have little scent, and leave Pierrot vacuuming rather than learning? Smell that bag of treats you just bought--it shouldn't smell like fake, weird chemicals. How about carrying multiple choices to keep Pierrot pumped and excited to train? How about changing your treats this week so he has a new exciting surprise?

And guess what? "Bait" can also be a favorite toy: a tennis ball or squeaky toy Pierrot gets to tug on or chase once or twice before going back to work. Carry with you on walks that stuffed squirrel he adores and watch how his loose leash walking becomes razor focused! A clicker can also motivate dogs if you're accurate and use it correctly.

Think about your dog's top three favorite food rewards: something she doesn't get except during training. Think about your dog's favorite real-life rewards: non-food items or events that make your dog joyful, maybe a belly rub or short game of tug on the leash or just going out the front door.

You know how to motivate Pierrot better than anyone--so keep the paychecks coming and sometimes throw in an unexpected bonus! Don't be stingy with your favorite fur ball!

"He Only Does It for Food"

Some people talk smack about positive training, that your dog needs a bribe to give the desired behavior. Of course that just shows a lack of knowledge about how positive training works. Rewards don't have to be food but are anything the dog finds motivating--food just happens to be a clear, quick communicator between you and your dog. Then, guess what? When the dog truly understands what you want and gives the behavior you're requesting, poof: the treats are quickly weaned away.

So why do humans say the dog will "only do it for a treat"? Lots of reasons, but primarily, the dog hasn't been fully trained. 

1. Is Thor really solid on "down"? Does he confuse it with "sit"? Does he know it in every circumstance and deliver? You can't take away the motivator (hot dog) yet if he's not solid.

2.  How many distractions are there? If Pirate can't FOCUS, he can't deliver. In the middle of a puppy class with five other young crazies yapping and jumping, Pirate may have a lot of difficulty giving "down" without the treat reminder.

3. Are you dangling the treat in front of your dog? "See, Coco? I have a nice treat for you if you lie down...." That's a bribe, not a reward. Her knowing you have food on you is quite different than your showing the possibility.

4. Are you letting Molly blow you off? If you ask for down and don't get it, WAIT. It's a really hard thing for humans to do, but if you think she pretty much knows what you want and she heard you, WAIT. She will provide the behavior. Again, if she gives you a "sit" instead, she's not clear or not listening, literally. Just don't repeat yourself ten times, silly, or she will listen less and wait till the tenth time before giving what you want.

5. Try asking for the behavior with less distractions and where you think you will succeed. Mixing in training throughout the dog's day leads to better listening than just finding ten-minute segments of training time. Sure, Loki is good when he knows you're doing that training thing the two of you do. But offering real-life rewards throughout the day leads to a better-trained pup. "Down" before he goes out the door to the yard. "Down" before you play tug with his fave rope toy. It's way easier for him to focus in your kitchen than in the dog park....

6. Stand up straight, speak with confidence, use hand signals, and EXPECT. If you expect your dog will offer the behavior, he will. 

7. PRAISE more. Hot dogs are communication devices--but so is "Good boy!" in a high enthusiastic voice. Pairing the praise with the treats when teaching something new will make it easy to delete the treats quickly.

8. Keep things FUN! That's why you have each other anyhow, right? Lucky puppy: you're reading a blog about dog behavior!